INDIAsize Anthropometry & Masterji Cut Standards

Size & Indian Fabric Guide

Tailored specifically for Indian clothing silhouettes and master craftsman (“Masterji”) standards. Calculate exact meterage based on Panna (fabric width), understand comfort ease (Gunjayish), and review size charts for Kurtas, Bandhgalas, Blouses, Kurtis, and Western suits.

INDIAsize & Masterji Standard

Indian Clothing Measurements & Yardage

Calibrated for Indian body anthropometry (NIFT INDIAsize) and traditional master tailor (“Darzi”) bolt cutting standards.

1. Select Garment to Tailor:Meters calculated for standard adult sizing
Required Yardage Breakdown

Men’s Long / Knee-Length Kurta

Loosing Allowance: +4 inches chest loosening (Gunjayish)
Chhota Panna (44" / 112 cm)Traditional Cotton/Silk

2.50 Meters (2.75 yds)

Standard single-width loom roll. Common for Indian handloom silks, mulmul, chanderi, and block-printed cottons.

Bada Panna (58–60" / 150 cm)Saves 20% Yardage

2.00 Meters (2.20 yds)

Double-width bolt. Standard for European worsted wools, Raymond trousering, luxury linens, and wide silks.

Astar (Lining) Requirement: Optional: 2.25m Cotton Mulmul (Astar) if sheer cloth
Masterji Cutting Note: Allows for side slits (Chak), mandarin collar, and 2.5" bottom hem turn-up.

The Indian Masterji Golden Rule: Pre-Shrinking & Margin Allowance

Pure 100% natural fibers (mulmul cotton, raw linen, khadi, and handloom silk) experience 3% to 5% natural shrinkage upon their first wash. Always soak and dry uncut natural fabrics before taking them to your tailor.

Shrinkage Buffer: Add +0.25 meters for cotton/linen kurtas and shirts.
Dabaav (Inner Seam Margin): Instruct tailor to leave 1.5" to 2" margin for alterations.
Indian Textile Terminology

The Masterji & Darzi Glossary

Essential terms used across fabric bazaars and bespoke workshops throughout India to ensure seamless communication with your tailor.

Panna (पन्ना) / Arzh (अर्ज)

The horizontal width of the fabric bolt from selvedge to selvedge. Crucial because "Bada Panna" (58"-60") cuts required yardage by 20% compared to "Chhota Panna" (44").

Gunjayish / Loosing (गुंजाइश)

The necessary 2.5" to 4" breathing allowance added over your skin chest or bust measurement so ethnic kurtas and shirts drape fluidly and allow full sitting mobility.

Dabaav / Margin (दबाव)

The 1.5" to 2" extra cloth folded inside the side-seams. Indian bespoke tailoring always includes this so a garment can be loosened if your body measurements change.

Astar (अस्तर / Lining)

Breathable inner lining cloth (usually lightweight cotton mulmul or silk) needed for sheer fabrics like chanderi, georgette, organza, or structured wool bandhgalas.

Teera (तीरा / Shoulder)

The straight distance across your upper back from the tip of one shoulder bone to the other. Sets the balance for kurtas, jackets, and shirts.

Ghera (घेरा / Hem Flare)

The circular sweep or hem circumference of an Anarkali, Kurti, or Lehenga. A standard lehenga has a 4 to 5.5-meter ghera for regal movement.

Tailoring Precision

How to Measure with a Standard Tailor Tape

01

Chest / Bust (Chhati)

Wrap the tape around the fullest point of chest, passing under armpits with 2 fingers flat under the tape for breathing ease. Do not pull tight.

02

Shoulder (Teera)

Measure horizontally across the back from the edge of the left shoulder bone to the edge of the right shoulder bone.

03

Kurta / Shirt Length (Lambai)

Measure from high point of shoulder (near base of neck) straight down over chest to just below the knee for Kurta, or mid-hip for shirts.

04

Waist & Inseam (Kamar)

For trousers, measure where you actually fasten your belt (at or below navel). For churidar/salwar, measure down to the ankle bone with extra for gathers.

Bespoke Fitting Advisory

Unsure of your bolt yardage or sizing?

Send your measurements or your tailor's cut list to our textile concierges for immediate verification.